My friend captured her Instagram post, "miradouro is my new favorite word" - this is the view from one of the many beautiful miradouros (Portugese for "viewpoint") in Lisbon.
My experience in Lisbon
During my semester abroad in college, I visited Lisbon for one day (well, 23 hours to be exact!). I loved it so much, I decided to return during my Eurotrip in the summer of 2022. On my second visit, I hit a few repeat spots but also found a few new gems. I honestly love Lisbon so much, I can't wait to go back again and again.
Lay of the land
Lisbon reminds me a lot of San Francisco... it's incredibly hilly, vibrantly colorful, located on the bay, and even has its own historic trolley system and a suspension bridge that looks just like the Golden Gate*! Don't plan on walking across the entire city given the hills, but luckily the public transit is super easy to navigate (tip: buy the 24H unlimited transport card that's good for bus + tram + metro + funicular). The key neighborhoods are outlined on the map below.
*The 25 de Abril Bridge in Lisbon is very similar in design to the Golden Gate Bridge, and at 2.28 miles (3.67km) long, it is actually slightly longer than its San Francisco counterpart and is one of the longest suspension bridges in Europe!
Within each section below, my recommendations are listed in order of priority (i.e. the items at the top are must-dos, so work your way down the list as time allows).
Activities
Sightsee in Alfama - this is the oldest district In Lisbon, where the roads have been described as labyrinthine. Spending a half a day (or more) in the neighborhood is my #1 recommendation of what to do in Lisbon. Here you'll get incredible views from the many miraduoros, take in beautiful, old architecture, and get to ride the historic #28 tram. For more detail on the specific spots to hit, see the sightseeing section below.
Take the ferry to Cacilhas - this was probably my favorite part of my second trip to Lisbon! Hop on the passenger ferry in Lisbon at Cais do Sodré to cross the harbor to charming Cacilhas, where you'll find a street lined with traditional Portuguese pubs and seafood restaurants. Proceed past the touristy spots right at the ferry landing and walk a few blocks into the good stuff.
We discovered an excellent, authentic restaurant called Cova Funda, where we sat outside and had some of the best seafood I've ever had in my life. The clams in garlic butter and the whole grilled octopus are must-orders. When we were there, there was also live music across the street!
After lunch at Cova Funda, walk along the river promenade to Atira-te ao Rio and/or Ponto Final to grab a coffee or a drink and enjoy the view.
Trek out to Belem - there are two key reasons to make the ~30 minute tram ride out to Belem: (1) to eat some of the best pasteis de nata - more on this in the "Eat & Drink" section, and (2) to visit the Jerónimos Monastery, a beautiful old building with gorgeous architecture (buy your tickets online ahead of time). We skipped all of the other tourist attractions in Belem because they just didn't seem that interesting, but if you have more time, there are a few additional monuments along the water that you can check out. Plan to spend a few hours if just doing (1) & (2), or a half day if hitting all the spots.
Check out Alcântara - slightly outside the city, this is a hip neighborhood along the river (accessible by tram). This makes a good stop on your way to/from Belem. While you're there, check out:
Shop the books at Livraria Bertrand - this is the oldest bookstore in the world that's still trading, not to mention it's gorgeous inside!
Day trip to Sintra - I haven't done this yet personally, but I've heard it's an excellent way to spend a day on a longer trip. In Sintra, you'll find tons of gorgeous old castles and architecture. Here's a guide with more details on this if you're interested.
Sightseeing
Note: There can be a marine layer in Lisbon in the morning (just like In SF), so I recommend planning your sightseeing for the afternoon.
Alfama - there is tons to see in the oldest district of Lisbon! Here are my top recommendations:
Miradouro das Portas do Sol - this beautiful overlook is a great spot to watch the sun rise, hence its name. The actual porta was destroyed in an earthquake, but there is a great view and a little restaurant to enjoy a drink while you take it all in.
Also stop inside the nearby Convento da Graça, which is full of beautiful, blue and white baroque tiles.
Take the Tram 28 - this vintage tram has been in operation since 1914, and with its slow pace and rattling sound, it perfectly complements the medieval look and feel of Alfama. Taking a ride is the quintessential Lisbon experience. Watch out for pickpockets, since the tram is often quite crowded.
St Anthony's Church - there is a pretty plaza in front, and in my opinion, no need to actually go inside the church. Throw a coin in the fountain outside if you are searching for love!
Castelo de S. Jorge - this is often cited as one of the top places to visit in Lisbon, but in reality, the beauty of the castle is on the outside! So my advice would be to skip the lines and take in the views of the Castelo (which is actually more of a fortress than a castle) from outside at one of the many viewpoints In Alfama.
Praça do Comércio - this is the central square in Lisbon, locted on the waterfront and lined with gorgeous, colorful architecture. I recommend visiting in the morning to avoid crowds.
While you're there, you can also visit the top of Arco da Rua Augusta (opens at 10 am), for €3.
You can also visit the nearby Pink Street - which is also the red light district.
Carmo Convent - this church and convent were destroyed in the famous 1755 earthquake (earthquakes... another SF parallel!). The ruins were purposely left in tact as a reminder/memorial to the city of the devastating quake. I highly recommend paying the €4 to tour the ruins.
Not-so-fun fact: since the earthquake happened on a Sunday morning, many people were at church and had left candles burning in their homes, which caused large, destructive fires to break out across the city. As a result of the timing, the historically-Jewish neighborhoods of Lisbon fared much better, since their residents were home during the quake and could stave off any candle-caused fires.
Praça do Rossio - in this square, you'll find the famous wave design on the pavement, which represents where the river meets the ocean.
Santa Justa Lift - an elevator/funicular In the center of town, it was designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel. You can pay €1.50 to visit the viewpoint at the top, however the lines are often quite long, so it may be enough just to admire the structure itself.
Church of Sao Roque - this church is completely clad in gold inside.
Eat & Drink
Note: Similar to Madrid's tapas, in Lisbon, you'll find petiscos, which are small version of large plates. The genius behind this model is that you can order and taste more dishes by ordering smaller versions. Additionally, pasteis de nata are classic Portugese custard tarts, which you MUST try. For reference: during our 4 days in Portugal, we tried 12 (!) different pasteis de nata.
Pasteis de Nata spots: (note: pasteis = plural, pastel = singular)
Santo António - voted 2019 best pasteis de nata. Makes for a great stop while you are out sightseeing in Alfama! We had a glass of port to go with our pastel, and it still lives rent free in my mind.
Pastéis de Belém - this is the home of the original (and most famous) pasteis de nata, and well worth a trip outside of the center city! Stop by before or (and) after your visit to the monastery next door. Make sure to sprinkle some cinnamon on top of your pastel!
Manteigaria - more of a chain, but incredibly delicious (and consistent) nonetheless.
A Brasileira - one of the oldest and most famous coffee shops in all of Lisbon! Stop in for an espresso and a delicious pastel.
O Velho Eurico - This old restaurant is now in the hands of 24-year-old cook Zé Paulo Rocha, part of a new generation of Lisbon’s rising stars nicknamed New Kids on the Block, who worked to move the dining scene forward during the pandemic. Despite Rocha’s age, expect traditional food — made with a hint of modernity — from a menu that changes daily. (make a reservation in advance via email)
Petisqueira Conqvistador - this is a cute little petisco spot that I discovered on my first trip to Lisbon and returned to on my second! It makes a great pit stop in between all the miradouros in Alfama.
Cova Funda, - delicious, authentic seafood spot in Cacilhas (see more in the "things to do section").
Plano Restaurante - offering a five- to nine-course tasting menu (vegetarian option available), Plano was one of the best meals we ate on our entire trip. Allegedly (I say allegedly because we did not experience this!), on hot summer nights, chef Vitor Adão sets up his kitchen in the intimate garden around the pool where, with the help of a charcoal grill beneath the orange trees, he cooks over open fire as if he were in the countryside. (make reservations ahead of time via e-mail)
A Ginjinha - Trying ginjinha in Lisbon is a must, and A Ginjinha is a great place to do so! Also known as ginja, this is a sweet liqueur made from Morello (sour) cherries soaked in a distilled spirit called aguardente and flavored with sugar and spices like cinnamon. It is deceptively sweet, small, and packs a punch. Stop here on your way before or after dinner.
The Old Pharmacy - an old pharmacy converted into a wine and food bar in historic Lisbon... what more could you want? Unfortunately, we ran out of time to visit this spot, but it looks amazing and was highly-rated in all of my research.
Rooftop Terrace at the Barrio Alto Hotel - a great spot to grab a drink and watch the sunset.
Toca da Raposa - voted one of the best cocktail bars in Europe. This was on my list, but we never actually made it here unfortunately.
Time Out Market Lisbon - a classic food hall with dozens of stalls serving all sorts of Portuguese fare. in my opinion, this spot was not worth the hype - it was quite commercialized, over-crowded, and you can find much better and more inexpensive Portuguese food elsewhere.